Maps
- O.S. Outdoor Leisure 35 covers this section and extends about 10 miles into the Carmarthen area.
- Landrangers: 157 from here to the other side of Fishguard, then 145 to Gors Fawr.
Introduction
The Celtic coastlines of Ireland, Britain and France feature at least four islands named after Saint Michael. It is apt that The Celtic Way: Walk begins at Ynys Meicel (Michael’s Isle) at the tip of Strumble Headland.
Entry into Pembrokeshire is most straightforward via Fishguard, which benefits from both rail and ferry links. As a terminus, it serves as a natural starting or ending point for the journey. The drive along the A40 to Fishguard offers stunning views, creating a sense of arrival. While it may be more practical for most to begin walking from Fishguard, the Celtic Way starts with the hill forts and burial chambers over Strumble Head, providing an excellent introduction for those willing to explore.
Getting Started
Upon arriving in Fishguard, if you have ample time, you can walk the 6 miles along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Footpath from Goodwick to Strumble Head. Here, you will find the start of the Celtic Way at Ynys Meicel, a small island with a distinctive white lighthouse. If you're pressed for time, consider taking a bus or taxi through the lanes to the car park at Ynys Meicel (just ask for the car park at Strumble Head).
Walking the coastal footpath exposes you to the elements, so be prepared. While the path offers breathtaking views, it can be challenging with its steep ascents and descents to bays and coves. Wayfinding is straightforward, but caution is essential, especially along cliff edges during strong winds or wet conditions. Note that there are no refreshment options along the route, and the Youth Hostel at Pwll Deri is self-catering with only a limited supply of essentials.
The Walk
The Celtic Way begins at Ynys Meicel and from here to Pwll Deri is a 3-mile trek along the coast path. The Youth Hostel at Pwll Deri provides a comfortable place to rest, especially after the walk from Fishguard. Whether you make do an overnight stop or not, the subsequent 6 miles from Pwll Deri to Fishguard take you along a stony ridge, bridleways, and quiet lanes, all under 200 feet above sea level, offering stunning views and a connection to this remote part of Pembrokeshire. I also recommend leaving plenty of time for the diversion to Ffynnon Pendruidion.
Highlights
- Garn Fawr hill-fort
- Garn Gilfach burial chamber
- Garn Folch and Garn Gelli
- Ffynnon Druidion (short diversion)
- Goodwick Brook footpath
Starting Point
- Ynys Meicel (Strumble Head) Car Park: Grid Reference 895 412.
At the cliff-top—whether you walked from Fishguard or took a bus or taxi—take a moment to enjoy the fresh air and anticipate your journey ahead. On clear days, the views are breathtaking.
Facing the sea, turn left and follow the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path signs for three miles east. The walk is scenic and secluded, crossing a cwm and stream at Pwll Arian (Silver Bay). You will pass Porth Maesmelyn and the small stony isles of Tri Maen-trai and Ynys Ddu. After about two miles, you’ll encounter Ynys Melyn, which features a fort on its hillside. Approaching as dusk falls, the lights of the Youth Hostel and nearby cottages signal the welcoming sight of Pwll Deri.
Pwll Deri is known for its stunning views and vivid sunsets; you may even spot grey seals along the coast.
Continuing the Walk
From Pwll Deri, Garn Fawr hill-fort rises majestically behind you. Cross the road from the Youth Hostel and follow the signs past Swn y Mor Cottage to the stile.
Behind Swn y Mor Cottage, there's a clochan-type hut—possibly a hermit's cell or a fish-drying hut similar to those in Western Ireland.
Crossing the stile brings you to the open hillside of Garn Fawr hillfort. There’s no defined path to the top, so choose your route carefully. A path to the right will guide you around the hillside back to the car park if you prefer.
At the summit, you’ll find a ridge path. Garn Fawr is part of the volcanic formations that give Strumble Head its distinctive “dragon’s back” crest. This Iron Age hillfort offers a glimpse into its defensive structures.
Follow the summit path down towards the car park. The alternate path around the hillside leads you close to the same point. You’ll see two simple cottages below, appearing almost as part of the hill—one was once home to the artist John Piper.
From the car park, turn left and follow the lane downhill, passing Tan y Mynydd Farm. After 100 yards, look for a sign leading to a track and bridleway towards Garn Gilfach and Garn Folch.
The path, flanked by drystone walls, is particularly vibrant with wildflowers in June. Gradually, Garn Gilfach rises to your right, with its unique atmosphere. You’ll find a burial chamber here, possibly a burial ground. The openness of this area felt stark in June, but revisiting in December changed my perspective.
Proceed through a gate onto open moor (look for the stone gatepost). Follow the path along the ridge unless you wish to explore higher. Continue past Garn Folch, and when a path joins from the left, go right. Approaching two hillside cottages, cross through the aluminum gate. The path then becomes a track leading downhill, eventually emerging opposite Penysgwarne.
You’ll join a quiet lane; turn left and follow it to the first right, signed for Rhosycaerau, continuing uphill towards Garn Gelli.
Garn Gelli stands out prominently, its characteristic appearance linking the hills you’ve traversed with the Gwaun Valley, Mynydd Dinas, and ultimately Carn Ingli. Although footpaths exist, they were overgrown during my walk; the less-frequented lanes are often more pleasant. The hedgerows burst with wildlife, uplifting your spirits.
You’ll spot a footpath sign for Garn Gelli, but be cautious—the undergrowth may be quite tall. If you venture to the top, be warned that the return path was indistinguishable among muddy fields when I last walked it. Sticking to the lane might be the best choice. A detour to Rhosycaerau to visit the church and churchyard is also an option.
Continue down the lane, passing Fron Haul on your left until you reach the crossroads. Here, you have a choice: the route goes left for 2/3 mile along a lane with outstanding views of Pembrokeshire’s hills and coastline. However, if time allows, it’s worth taking the right turn for a ½ mile detour to see the burial chamber, spring, and standing stone at Ffynnon Druidion (Grid Reference SN921 365).
To visit Ffynnon Druidion, head right for nearly ½ mile to the farm buildings, then turn downhill. The burial chamber is just off the road in a field to your right, while the standing stone is alongside the road a bit further down. The site is charming and steeped in history. Various interpretations of its name exist: Ffynnon refers to the spring, and Drudion or Druidion might refer to several legendary figures. The earlier name for the well was Fonnan Pedrykaun, later evolving to Fynnon Pendrigion, suggesting a connection to Drigion’s land. It’s tempting to link it to Pendragon, though that may be misleading. Retrace your steps back to the crossroads to rejoin the main route.
Continue along the lane, enjoying the rocky outcrops from Garn Gelli as they draw near. Take the right turn and descend a steep lane for ¾ mile, passing Ty Newydd. When the road bends right near Trefwrgi, keep going downhill. Cross the A487 carefully, then continue past Ivybridge B&B and through an old tunnel until you reach a forked track. Take the left path, climbing uphill past some cottages, and you’ll pass a meadow with goal posts on your left.
Follow the winding path down towards the reed beds and Goodwick Brook. This path becomes a Dyfed Nature Walk, marked by blue house on yellow background signs. You won’t need them; it’s the only path through the reedland. Here, you’ll find yourself on a narrow stony path, bordered by gnarled trees and the brook. This is one of the two points on the Celtic Way where you truly sense you are on a historical path. Look back up the valley for a glimpse of a quaint cottage on the hill—timeless in its beauty, interrupted only by a piece of rusty farm equipment and a notice about the SSI status. I even disturbed a heron fishing here.
Cross the small footbridge over the brook, then turn left at the junction of tracks. The path ascends to the Seaview Hotel; cross the road to visit the Strumble Art Gallery, where you’ll find a commemorative plaque for the Fishguard Marine Walk.
Before you continue, take a moment to enjoy Goodwick Parrog. Savor the tide flows, cloud formations, sea colors, and cormorants. The Strumble Head light may seem far, but your time walking will bring it closer.
Continuing your journey, follow the cycle path along the A487, which eventually turns right onto the lane leading to Fishguard.
Recommended Stop: The Olde Worlde Cafe
A short detour to the Olde Worlde Café in Fishguard is well worth it. Its combination of fresh and frozen dishes provides the perfect opportunity to rest and refuel
